Published in The Standard, September 5, 2008
Personal attention
Taryn Ozorio samples simple French delights at private kitchen, Le Marron
Le Marron surprises at soon as you step inside, you’d never guess you were just a stones throw from the bustle and traffic of Causeway Bay. The décor is casual and laid back, like you’re in a French home, surrounded by family antiques and collections. Each table is like a mini candlelit private room, hidden from other diners with classic French textiles and etched glass screens.
Le Marron is a private kitchen that specialises in casual home-style French cooking. Clearly one of the owners is an interior designer, from the wallpaper and chandeliers to the ‘boudoir’ – everything is authentically and uniquely French. The owners wanted people to feel like they were eating at home, in a French kitchen.
Le Marron offers over 30 dishes ranging from quiche and salads to fresh seafood and steaks. The menu is seasonal, they choose the best ingredients that are on offer to design their home-style French classics.
Toh Yeung, the Manager, says proudly that “the beauty of being in a building like this is that we can keep our prices low and still get high quality ingredients”.
As a private members’ club, Le Marron can keep prices low. You can also bring your own wine, a plus for many.
Seafood fanatics won’t be disappointed with their Seafood platter, called the Seafood Ice Mountain. For only $480 you get Alaskan King Crab, French mussels, prawns and crab, whelks, Boston Cherrystone clams and a selection of sauces. Enough to easily satisfy four as a starter.
The goose liver is particularly good, with both smoked ($130) and pan-fried ($140) on offer. Toh told The Standard he is particularly proud that the kitchen makes its smoked goose liver from scratch, using traditional methods like straining it through muslin.
Our palates were cleansed and refreshed with a lemon sorbet ‘amuse bouche’, preparing us for our main courses. The confit de canard ($155), a French classic, is a preserved and roasted duck breast with delicate orange flavours. The baked almond crusted seabass in filo wrap ($200) covered the plate with its artful layers and melts in your mouth. We saw “cote de boefs” marching towards eager diners, the incredible size of these giant Australian Kobe beef steaks ($780) necessitate a willing partner.
Don’t forget to save room for dessert. The dessert menu includes delicious French pastries, cheese and good strong French coffee. If it’s not too hot, have your dessert and coffee on their fabulous balcony. The French style awnings and ambience make this balcony one of the best kept secrets in Hong Kong.
One of my dining companions compares Le Marron favourably with Ooh La La in Wanchai, but notes approvingly that it is a quarter of the price.
Bookings are a must, same day reservations during the week can be arranged. For weekends, you’ll need to book a week in advance. Call 2881 6662 or go to www.marron.com.hk.
